I’ve tried to report the issue to Prusa support but they keeps trying to diagnose it as user error. But at this point I’m at a loss and presume that it’s either a firmware issue or a sensor issue on my unit.

Either way im very disappointed.

And before you ask, this is the opposite side

PXL_20240301_160413072

EDIT: I will note that this print sheet is ruined for my use case, since those patterns will be shown on the underside of my prints. But the print surface still works and can be used without issue… if you ignore the gouges that are being detailed into every print.

    • the16bitgamer@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      Living in a 30 year old apartment for 5 years and no way to do repairs. It was liked this when I moved in.

      $1,500 CAD/Month (current market $2000) Welcome to Halifax, NS!

      • Zess@lemmy.worldBanned
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        1 year ago

        I’d just shove some wood filler in the gaps to at least have a smooth floor even if it doesn’t look great. I feel like I’d stub my toes on that shit all the time.

        • Chip_Rat@lemmy.world
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          1 year ago

          What op should do is tap/slide the boards all to one end so the gaps all come together as one big gap at the less important side of the room. Maybe there’s a bookcase or tv against that wall so they don’t step there.

        • Magrath@lemmy.ca
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          1 year ago

          Those look like pretty big gaps, close to 1" on the biggest. That’s gonna take a whole of woodfiller.

  • dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    I just had to read up on the MK4 because I don’t own one. Apparently this machine uses a load cell on the bed to detect the nozzle touch? That means that to home Z or mesh level the bed, the nozzle has to touch the build surface. This strikes me as a rather bad idea. I can think of tons of situations such as a pointy diamond or ruby nozzle, a very hot nozzle, or a nozzle with hardened crud stuck to it all causing damage to the print sheet, not to mention the potential for damage to the nozzle itself.

    Ideally the nozzle should never, ever touch the print surface. For any reason.

    There’s a purpose behind things like the BL Touch having a soft plastic probe on the end.

    • infinitepcg@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      In the cases you describe it should fail by ruining the print, not the build plate though. If there is something between the nozzle and the plate, it will be too far away from it after calibration, not too close.

    • the16bitgamer@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      Oh I’ve had my fair share of issues with this. i.e. little specs of the previous print color is stuck on the next print since I missed it during print clean up.

      But if I am honest, for a normal spring steel PEI sheet it’s perfect. And I prefer this to the magnetic solution like on the Mini since it lets me use Garolite/G10.

      I’ve only seen this issue with the satin bed.

    • papalonian@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      Hey, just wanna point out that having a touch sensor built into the nozzle is definitely not unheard of, my printer (Neptune 3 from elegoo) uses the same sensor. It’s not the most reliable sensor in the world but it got the job done until I got my BLTouch.

    • the16bitgamer@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      Useing older firmware (was 1 version behind at the time of conversation), and a dirty nozzle which I clean regularly to prevent PETG globs from being deposited in my prints.

      EDIT: The newest markings on the print bed was on the latest firmware.

        • the16bitgamer@lemmy.worldOP
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          1 year ago

          Is there other firmware for Prusa MK4? I knew you could break a thing on the motherboard, but I thought that be some time from now.

          • SzethFriendOfNimi@lemmy.world
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            1 year ago

            Exactly… so I’m wondering what the user error would be. Unless it’s some weird setting update they’re thinking.

            No way to know without being privy to the conversation but it makes me wonder.

  • morbidcactus@lemmy.ca
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    1 year ago

    Oof that’s rough. I have marks on mine from bad 1st layer offset from the first time or so I used the sheet on my mk3s, but they’re more just lightly shiny rather than gouges. Definitely show up on the print but it’s fine otherwise, and honestly the spots aren’t the worst.

    What happened when that was going on? My experience with the voron tap a dirty nozzle would make the 1st layer offset too large and move away from the bed, not crash it.

    • the16bitgamer@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      Exactly as you said. I call it gouging since material is being removed. But the marks aren’t deep and the print surface is completely usable. Don’t have a better word for it than gouging.

      As for what I was doing? Restarting a print I had to stop part way last night since the filament jammed. I looked away for a second then heard knocking from the printer and was welcomed to this beautiful new mark on my print sheet.

      • morbidcactus@lemmy.ca
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        1 year ago

        Wow that sucks even more, I had thought there would be a bunch of crash protections built into their firmware, prusa usually has pretty decent support so sorry you’re dealing with that.

  • Overzeetop@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    If this was during an auto level, it’s my humble opinion that this is a manufacturer’s defect in the machine that caused the damage. There should be proper coding to ensure that any increase in sensor pressure by (delta p) halt that machine and that there should be a pressure offset in the sensor such that a loss of signal or anomalous zero reading or lack of reading is done prior to levelling to ensure that a sensor failure has not occurred. My XL freaks out if a fan isn’t spinning at the right speed, so they clearly know that a nominal operational check before the print starts is proper engineering design.

    Of course you won’t get anywhere. Unfortunately, a lot of 3D print failures really are user error so I suspect that’s their default response and it takes them a good deal of proof to push them of that mark.

    • the16bitgamer@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      I 100% agree, however I went Prusa for their replacement parts and long term support of said parts. Rather than their quality which outside of the bed levels on uneven surfaces has been good.

      • Overzeetop@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        Oh, I didn’t mean to come off as dissing Prusa in general. I ponied up for an XL and it’s night-and-day better than any previous printer I’ve owned.

  • Mpatch@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    Now do it like 5 or 6 more times on the rest of the bed and now it’s textured for extra adhesion.

  • anguo@lemmy.ca
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    1 year ago

    I upgraded my school’s MK3s to MK3.9s, and while it hasn’t gouged in the actual printing area, it has left a deep mark where it first extrudes a line of filament, on all of my sheets.

    My problem is kind of the opposite, I feel it doesn’t give it enough squish, and I’m having a lot of adhesion issues. There is also a new cold draft in the space however, so can’t yet pinpoint the issue to this.