With a DNS whitelist, all incoming packets are dropped unless the address is on the list. It is like ad block, but reversed. You are not blocking known ad servers, but all servers except those you actually want to connect to. It is a pain in the ass to look at logs and white list all the time. In reality, you only visit around a hundred sites or less that you actually need or want to connect to. Nothing gets in except what you want. That kills most vulnerabilities.

DNS whitelist firewall on a router. Deny everything that is not whitelisted by address and port.

This would make open source dominant and kill off all the rest. Big money will battle to keep digital slavery.

The only use case I see for helping with STL files at this point, is if the path to quads is made easier. As others have said, STEP is far better because it retains π. I do not do file sharing or print the designs of others because they are usually of dubious quality. Sadly, legislation has made the subject of connecting and sharing political with no effective push back from businesses in this space. If I am forced to chose between digital slavery with internet and disconnecting, I prefer the island life. In prep for that impending dystopia, I would not use any online service like this in my tools. I hope it is useful for someone. GL.

Unrelated to the question or circumstance

No one reads hex as strings IRL.

It does not. It can be rendered as a control character.

It is non printing. It cannot be seen or scanned or highlighted. It looks like nothing, except the file size is large with more hex than should be in the binary.

Flooded with misinformation and conflicting sources; in a constant struggle to barely survive, no escape, and information overload fatigue.

The cheapest fans available often have a lot of injection molded plastic that squeezes out of the gaps of the metal mold when the plastic parts are formed. Removing this may help some.

The cheapest fans now come with the small motor shaft embedded into the frame with a tiny ball of metal formed at the end of the shaft. The ball is what prevents the shaft and fan blade portion from coming out of the housing. This type of bearing and retention cause more friction than a design that uses a bushing and a small plastic retainer ring. They type with the retainer ring are usually floating in the magnetic field. The little plastic retainer ring on the shaft end is only present in cases where the fan is dropped causing more force than the magnetic field will hold onto. If a person such as yourself, presses on this type of fan at the fan blade hub, you will feel the magnetic field and see the hub deflect and then return to the center of the field. Spinning it will feel frictionless. With the ball shaft type, there is little deflection and it feels like a bit more friction when comparing two side by side.

With the ball shaft type, most of the noise will be coming from the friction and transmitted through the body of the enclosure. If you isolate the fan with some damping between it and the enclosure it will reduce the noise considerably. Damping the enclosure, and adding rubber feet between any table or surface may also help.

My experience may or may not apply here… In automotive paint refinishing back 15+ years ago, 2 part epoxy primers are special. Most primers are (were) 2k urethane. These are similar to automotive 2k clearcoat in how they work. They both have similar thicknesses, leveling after wet coats, and to a lesser extent - drying properties. With drying properties, the surface levels within a minute or so but it forms a surface film and the back side remains tacky for longer. (Where they differ is that clearcoat takes much longer to fully cure, like weeks to months, while primer is workable within an hour or less.) Epoxy primers are high build fillers. They get hard as a rock and are a pain in the ass to sand down. The two main reasons for using an epoxy are for super rough large surfaces, and this the the relevant bit here, they are used to seal the surface.

In paint, there are a ton of nightmare situations. Like let’s say some brake fluid got on the paint in a crash, or some idiot used rattle can enamel on a car. Often what happens is that the repair I am doing is not the first time the panel has been repaired. While I would like to clean the issue completely and use typical 2k primers, the previous repair may have used epoxy and buried something terrible. I’m not going to strip the whole panel and have to spray additional adjacent panels to color match when I did not estimate this in the cost quote. Epoxy seals out EVERYTHING. With stuff like spray can enamel, the painted surface never cures. It remains reactive to the solvent of anything sprayed on top of it. If ABS trim or bumper covers are exposed to acetone, similar issues with reactions will happen, unless 2 part epoxy primer is used. Epoxy primer is impermeable in the context of automotive paint; it is the nuclear option. Everything else allows some solvents to pass through it over time.

If you have ever touched the paint of new cars and noticed the softness, that is uncured clearcoat that is still venting solvents in small quantities. This is also why jams painting inside of the seals is kept to a minimum clearcoat thickness. The thicker the clear, the longer it will take to fully cure. As an ex pro painter, that softness tells me a lot about a finish too. It actually starts forming around 5 minutes after the clear is shot, just after the fingerprint test does not pull a string when removed. That is the first moment when I am able to barely graze the surface with fingertips and not damage the surface. It is still very wet underneath at this stage.

Hopefully that illustrates how even the hardest of painted surfaces is still able to allow stuff to pass through it. If you want to stop that stuff, you need a paint that is made specifically to seal everything.

That said, the seals and other materials also need to be up for the task. Most of those are likely just dust seals. How you deal with corners is critical. Just look at stuff like Pelican cases.

Yeah. Got a kit of it from a thrift store years ago and try to use it in jigs to save printing when possible… 4.3mm bolt holes, 7×2.3mm square nut slots and 12.7mm pitch. I have it and M3 memorized.

Any UEFI secure boot enabled distro will remove all boot entries without a valid package key or a shim to a valid key.

Glad you got it working.

deleted by creator

So the trick to sanding longer with abrasives is wet sanding. In addition, in automotive work, a drop of Palmolive dish soap is added to a bucket of water. This addition makes a huge difference.

Overall, the principal of like polishes like is important. In abstract, polish is just fine abrasion. Like your finger prints are around 5k-7k grit equivalent. Rub something long enough and you will both polish and abrade it the same as this grit. The oils in your skin are the polishing agent.

I have played around with 10k grit wet sanding and then machine polishing with a light compound where places I rested my hand showed minor variations after stripping any oils and fillers with wax and grease remover (solvent).

I can think of several aspects to increase the complexity here. One could add inserts into the outer vibrating shell. These could be any materials.

I think the bigger issue will actually be the distance between the object and the shell. You see, the size of the random orbital action is the product of two concentric circles. In the pro automotive world, these are pneumatically driven. There are several models available with different properties related to this motion and the internal balance of the mechanism. Within this range of actuation, it is critical that abrasion does not follow a path of repetition. I think this likely means the shell must be larger than the radius of the largest of these two circles or maybe a more complicated size larger than the combination of overlapping radii including their central connection point. This should enable the part to move within the range of random sanding action. That range means the sanding is over a larger area.

The best shell is likely one with gaps similar to a DA sander with ports for dust collection.

Very little of any fiber touches the actual nozzle during printing. The actual fiber size used in filament is far far smaller than what most people imagine. It is only the waste dust from the production and processing of carbon fiber. All actual fibers of any useful length are sold in industry for use in composites. There are continuous fiber printers, but that is not at all related to what is used in 3d printing. If you actually look at the data from people testing materials, fiber infused materials are always weaker. They print better because they are breaking up the polymer bonds. Lots of people jump on the buzzword thinking it is technomagic mor betterer but do not pay attention to the details. If the fiber had any length to it, it would clog like crazy because a long bunch of fibers distributed in 1.75mm crammed into 0.4mm is never going to happen. It is just like a dust additive that happens to be available and is compatible. So it should be well distributed throughout. With ABS a wipe of acetone should help too, if left to completely flash off the solvent for a week or more. That needs to be super limited though. Acetone tends to get retained in bad bad ways with ABS. It is a massive no no to use in automotive applications.

I would be impressed if the servos are enough to power it. Skimming through a dozen pages of posts it was just the most interesting thing I spotted to try and post some content in a dead feed lull.

On YT, CHEP is probably one of the best references for basic Ender setup and use.

You are unlikely to have the issue overall, but there is a nonzero chance of having issues with any aluminum extrusions based linear motion system. It is only a serious problem for a single digits percentage of people and the problem is worse on larger printers.

When aluminum extrusions are manufactured, the tolerances of faces are really good. However the one factor that is poorly constrained is twist. The amount is imperceptible without a metrology setup to measure the deviation. In the unlikely chance that you have triple checked every part of your setup, and you are still having issues, keep in mind this is a thing that exists. Try swapping symmetrical components where possible to see if the problem follows the swapped extrusion. This is one of those issues that is nearly impossible to find on your own unless you know to look for it.

If you need any help, don’t hesitate to reach out directly, or post. I’ll help you any way I can. Happy printing!

In my experience selling it as a whole never happens outright. Buying someone out goes the other way around. I’ve owned my own business twice.

You will honestly be better off holding your accounts if you ever change your mind or direction. You will get stuck with junk or make selling off stuff your career for a time. If you cannot keep your tools, make some impossible to pass up deal in bulk lots divided so that there is a good distribution of value.

If you placed everything on eBay piecemeal, you will never sell your last item before you die. That is the case on any single platform. I was the buyer for a chain of bike shops for several years. I have sold over $136k on eBay, and I used swap meets to offload overburden too. If anyone consigns for you, if their business model is viable, they will take at least 40% out of the gross margin.

All of eBay’s fees, shipping, taxes, all combined with an account in perfect standing came out to 39-42% of the total sale price. So with consignment, you will actually get around 20% of the total sale price or a little less. It is not at all sustainable and why no one runs successful businesses doing eBay consignments. eBay should be less than half their present fees, especially considering the poor quality of service.

Think of offloading stuff from the perspective of the interested individual, not like a business. Part out and sell your excess tooling while still running your business with what you have.

Personally, I don’t paint cars any more and if I could physically do the work, I still wouldn’t want to. However, many of my tools and stuff are still kicking around and something I do not regret keeping. Quite the opposite, I really wish I had kept what remained of my mixing system, and all of my welding and polishing gear.

Not allowed until after you write the bootloader Hercules. Tell the gods of Olympus hello. Perhaps I will visit them one day. Gentoo with Sakaki was enough to sate my thirst.