So I was just wondering what is, in your opinion the best Resin printer to get that just works like how Bambu printers in the FDM space just seem to work.
Or
Just what resin printer would you recommend purchasing?
I have a mars 3 and looking to upgrade to maybe a Saturn 4 ultra because I want a bigger build plate and auto leveling seems nice so it’s one less step I need to do.
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Yeah I’m looking really at any cubic mono 5s pro or the Saturn 4 ultra. As my two top contenders for upgrades.
What you’re asking for is going to be way overpriced. Heygears is likely the pro-sumer brand you’re looking for.
I saw their slicer needs an internet connection to slice files. Which is a major deal breaker for me.
Yeah, but it’s the only hold your hand experience for resin printing that isn’t even more expensive. I honestly think the hold your hand experience is unnecessary for resin printing. It’s already way easier than FDM.
Stick with Elegoo, they’re great.
FDM seems easier tbh. I just slice and throw it on the printer I have a Creality k1 atm and it just goes. I don’t need to worry much about anything. I’d say resin has a bit more to dial in. And clean up is another thing. But I agree probably sticking with elegoo.
https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/download/the-cones-of-calibration
Combine that with the multiple exposure function of UV tools and calibration is dead simple. Way way way less complicated to get the best quality out of resin compared to FDM.
And a wash and cure is going to be money well spent. I’ve tried a bunch of cheaper alternatives and nothing compared to the simplicity and functionality of the wash and cure system. I also only use alcohol in mine because it’s easy to put outside in disposable trays to evaporate and then when the leftover resin in the bottom cures it can just be thrown away.
All of them except the Prusa. They are all proprietary schemes to get you to subscribe to software. There are hacked sub par tool chains to attempt to use them freely, but no one really does it in practice enough that you see them using the thing regularly.
All high resolution displays are proprietary and completely undocumented publicly. Every display is different in how to communicate with it and they change constantly where reverse engineering one will do nothing of value. The next batch of displays manufactured will change in some fundamental way that means the previous reverse engineering efforts must be redone from scratch. Reverse engineering displays and their protocol is a PITA and usually ruins a display or few. You need complex jigs to handle them outside of their final packaged assembly or things break extremely easily. I’ve messed with some smaller simple graphics and LCD displays and reverse engineering, and it is not fun. So you’re unlikely to ever see one of the proprietary resin printers reverse engineered for use with open source software. So full ownership is not an option. It is basically just like bambu but worse. As far as I’m concerned, the Prusa is the only resin printer for sale because I am not for sale/exploitive manipulation, or renting stuff for a one time payment of an equivalent cost of ownership. The Form Labs stuff is probably the prosumer level go-to.
Form labs isn’t really in my price range sadly.
Personally, I’d recommend any Elegoo printer.
As you already have a Mars 3, upgrading to a Saturn 4 is a good step, though I can’t vouch for its auto plate leveling. As others mentioned, the thing with resin is that it’s toxic, smelly and the fumes from curing can also be problematic. Personally, I’d recommend getting water-based resins, since cleaning them is way, way easier and safer than having to deal with isopropyl alcohol, acetone or anything else. Dunk on a bucket of water, then on another and you’re done, just dry and cure.
For cleaning the buckets, wait for the stuff to sink to the bottom (I prefer leaving at least 1 day), cure and throw away. Or leave it to evaporate naturally on small plastic cups.
Yeah I use water resin already. And I also have a dryer vent setup that takes the fumes and vents them outside. I like my mars 3 but I seem to have to tinker a lot with it. Might just be me always thinking my plate isn’t level though.
Unless your prints are failing often, you can leave the plate as is. I got a Creality Halot Mage (Saturn clone) and I have to re-level that thing after every 2 prints. The difference is enough to make several prints fail if I use the right side of the screen, as the base layers won’t even adhere to the plate. Part of the problem might be the FEP I’m using, which seems too “sticky”
