I’m just this guy, you know?

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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 12th, 2023

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  • If you’d bought a 2TB you could just dd image the windows disk to the new drive. If you can convince Windows to downsize its partition and then use a partition editor on a USB liveboot to identify the drive sectors you could maybe still image the windows disk. Big “if.”

    As to the second question, use block IDs-- the filesystem’s UUID. Grub is lazy and assumes a single root (the first found) partition so if you want a particular boot entry to use a specific root slice, you’ll need to ensure each OS entry in grub uses the right UUID for its kernel root parameter. Loading the right root gets you the rigjt /etc/fstab to mount that root’s expected partitions

    Honestly you’d be better off running your stuff in VMs. Dual-boot is a nightmare.



  • I happen to have LMDE installed on a Lenovo Thinkpad Carbon X1 (Gen 3) tablet. It has a stylus that takes a AAAA (yes, quad-A) battery. Its an i5 or i7 Intel processor, and has a 3k Wacom sensor display. I’ve played with Inkscape on it and I think it fits the bill nicely, but it’s also discontinued.

    Cinnamon was the only DE with DPI scaling that worked worth a damn, and also had good native support for screen autorotation and onscreen keyboard.

    I need to completely wipe and reinstall the system now because I configured my slices too small, and for some reason decided not to put root in an LVM like a sane person would have (it was 2017 tho. Different times…)

    Anyhoo, if you can come by one through the refurb market, I think it comes closest to your spec, saving the no-battery stylus.









  • The inner parts of the Milky Way (or any galaxy for that matter) is more, um, illuminated with hard radiation and cosmic rays than way out here in the 'Burbs of the Western Spiral Arm.

    Fair chance biological life didn’t get much farther than something similar to Earth’s Giant Tube Worms for all that radiation.



  • Not really productivity services, but to name a couple,

    • Google One (extra storage, bonus YouTube Premium & YT Music premium)
    • MXroute for mail hosting (used to self host)
    • Amazon Prime (for the shipping, the content is a bonus for us)
    • Hulu (kid’s gotta see that ONE show… 🙄)
    • Lemmy.world (via Patron)
    • Couple of YouTube creators and app publishers I enjoy regularly (via Patreon)

    I’m considering joining Nebula because many of the creators I frequently watch on YouTube are setting up shop up over there, and I’m getting irritated with YouTube for how The Algorithm is affecting the quality and content of the infotainment channels I enjoy.


  • Maybe not the solution you were asking for, but the Nvidia Shield on the stock code has been a fair compromise for me. The ads on the main screen are relatively unobtrusive, and sometimes even vaguely relevant to our viewing preferences. We largely watch Hulu, Prime and YouTube+ (with free access to AppleTV and Netflix, but I haven’t set those up yet). For ads, we pretty much only deal with Amazon’s new advertising in included Prime content. We’ll probably stop viewing that content once the series we’re currently watching wraps.

    For context, my daily driver phone is LineageOS which is rooted all to heck to smack down intrusive advertising and tracking (Magisk, AdAway, AppManager to disable in-app trackers, uBlock on the browser, etc…), and my home network uses a pihole for DNS and malware blocking. I really hate advertisers.

    On the pihole, the Shield is actually only the #3 top offender of blocked requests, behind my wife’s work laptop and my kid’s Steam rig. The main offender on the Shield was the ESPN app, which I removed because I never really watch sports outside of tye idd division game, which most of the time I meet friends out at the local pub anyway. Otherwise the Shield has been a well behaved appliance.

    So it’s not the perfect ad-free experience, but its hardly the advertising dystopia of broadcast TV.


  • Not many 3rd party shops are qualified to work on Teslas, so repairs are generally performed at the dealers who are on balance more expensive. You’ve been lucky so far to have warranty coverage, but what would your out-of-pocket costs have looked like if you had to cover to cost of those repairs yourself?

    How long do you intend to own and drive your Tesla, and what do you anticipate future maintenance and repair bills to look like?

    Traditional internal combustion vehicles burn fuel and require regular maintenance that electrics don’t. They also suffer mechanical wear & tear, and need regular maintenance, oli changes, fuel, etc. Back of the envelope math: over 100,000 miles, or say 10 years of light to average driving, you are apt to have 330 fuel fill-ups at $55 per, maybe 30 oil changes at $65 per, 5 sets of brakes at $225 per, maybe an odd $3000 in other wear & tear maintenance or a major repair. Call it $20-25k in over 10 years for cost of ownership. If you drive more, you’re apt to see those costs go up. (eta: Not accountig for things like taxes, insurance, registration fees, and other wear elements like wipers, tires, and the like as they’re probably a wash between IC and EV fleets)

    I’m not nearly as familiar with ownership costs of a Tesla, but I do understand that there are probably fewer maintenance expensss because there are fewer moving parts to wear. The power plant and braking systems are electrical and suffer less mechanical wear, fueling costs are shifted to electric costs which are obscured by other supply costs and usage, and the fleet is young enough that most major repairs are still under warranty.

    But, when do those warranties expire, and what do you the consumer do with the vehicle after that? Is there an aftermarket? A buyback or trade-in market? If you plan to “drive it into the ground,” then how many miles can you expect to get out of your Tesla before you have to buy a new car? Will an extended warranty be an option?

    At that point, what does an out-of-warranty battery replacement look like? I’ve heard it can be between $4000 and $10000, a significant portion of the cost value of the vehicle. How about a dead touchscreen? That’s a major component for the vehicle. What about the maintenance fees for software upgrades for those systems? (eta: or ongoing software support?)

    I may have made your argument for you, but I also hope I’ve demonstrated that potentially significant ownership costs may simply have shifted later into the life cycle. You may still have to bear them if you can’t offload the vehicle.

    What I hope isn’t the answer is that these cars are all destined for scrap after their first owner. I buy my vehicles to drive for a long time and plan to offload through private sale or for parts. I don’t know that I’ll have that same luxury with Teslas, let alone the current fleet of EVs and HEVs.

    edits: typos, mostly