Yes, it would be unfortunate for a new user to experience all the horror our distinguished friend EvilSocket is telling everyone today…

Keep up the good work!

Did you uninstall cups and avahi?

Ender. Happened back in the days with a 3v2, the stepper drivers on the original mainboard overheat, causing it to ‘miss’ steps.

Replaced the MB with an improved version, tuned the vRef and never had any issues again.

You might look into tuning the vRef for your machine.

That is not how it is supposed to look, the end result should be at least a couple of inches wide.

Maybe you don’t need to ‘fix’ your retraction settings?

If it looks good enough, why bother?

Wasn’t aware of the test (SuperSlicer user here), and found this.

The tower has multiple notches, each one corresponding to a different retraction length. By looking at the tower after printing, you can see how each retraction length affects the print quality.

So check your surface finish and select the retraction value with the best looks.

Depending on the size, but I’ve had success with super glue and baking soda.

https://www.instructables.com/Baking-Soda-Reinforcing-Glue-Repair/

Ender 3v2 as starter here, doubled the price with a lot of upgrades/modifications. Got it running rock solid with Klipper and a microswiss direct drive.

Grabbed the piggy bank and am now really satisfied with my voron 2.4.

But very pleased with the fact I started with the Ender and got to learn then basics.

As far as I can suggest anything; start with something with a large installed base, so it will be easy to find answers or (hardware) solutions to your problems. I can tell you, the installed base for Ender is large, but the quality of the hardware, is what you pay. And they are cheap…

SuperSlicer, nightly builds from GitHub.

Designing stuff: FreeCad and OpenSCAD. Lots of YouTube material for educational purposes.

Regarding the printer, this depends on the make/model/manufacturer, but the more serious people (not starting a flame war here, just my observation) tend to use Klipper. Most printers run some form of Marlin, but most can run Klipper as an alternative firmware.

And there are the slicers… A huge amount of choice here, but one way or the other, most are forks/spinoffs of previous work. Personal choice here is SuperSlicer, mostly due to its interface and me being too lazy to use OrcaSlicer of one of the other options.

But beware: tuning, measuring adjusting will take a lot of time. And the entire 3d printing community likes is.

And that probably won’t be the end.

Very happy (and after 2 years usage still extremely unskilled) with FreeCad.

Noticed someone mentioning this (the product ) last weekend and did a next-next-finish install on some old hardware.

This is really nice, got me some nice actions running already.

I used to build locally and use git, cgit and Trac, but will probably move everything to forgejo.

This is nice! When in need, this can be a life saver. Thank you!

Recently switched from Marlin to Klipper. It looks like there is a sample configuration for your N32 board. Maybe a good custom firmware for your printer…

To flatten the learning curve, I’ve installed the Mainsailos image on a raspberry pi 4 and followed a lot of documentation / YT to get things up and running. The results are great, still got to get input shaping and the resonance measurements, but quite a difference!

I’m using a bl-touch. So the firmware will need to know the delta between the tip of the probe and your extruder (the z-offset).

I doubt creating a mesh without a probe is possible. At the moment I use a mesh with 9*9 points. This gets saved to eeprom and (see the other comment) loaded at startup using a g-code. I let it do a three-point probe after hearing the bed, so the software knows if it needs to tilt the mesh.

I do use octoprint, but these capabilities are all embedded in the software by mriscoc.

I own an Ender and installed alternative firmware (mriscoc professional firmware) which gives me a feature to probe the bed on multiple points and store this mesh in memory.

Now the firmware ‘knows’ about all the holes and hills on the bed and compensates for it.

You want to look for terms like bed mesh leveling, when you’ve got a probe attached, this technique can really help.

Holidays are coming, maybe I can find some time to give it another go. Last attempts was 20mm/sec, but maybe it needs even less speed.

If everything else fails, I’ll reach out here. Thanks.

Yes, this is really soft material. Got the printer to produce some results, but a lot of blobs between gaps. Never achieved nice gaps between edges.

Tried this but my result is nearly as good.

Really, really nice results!

I’ve been spending too much time in testing with fiberlogy 30D material on an upgraded ender 3v2 (direct drive, pei etc.etc.)

Gave up after three dozen test prints and sub-par results. Back to petg with great results.

Thanks! I’ll give it a go tomorrow. At ‘toothpick holders’ dimensions it probably be finished really quick. :-)

Will increase the size, thanks for the heads-up.